Well hey there!
I called this week’s pattern the Light & Lacy Poncho because I crocheted it using baby weight yarn! Bernat Softee Baby, to be exact and I tell you what—I’m so glad I did!
If you want a light weight garment that is airy and soft, yet can keep you warm during a sudden Autumn breeze, then this is the poncho for you!
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This pattern was so easy to create when you consider that it’s an article of clothing. Most of the time, I imagine that clothing would be difficult to make, but this poncho is not. It’s simply two rectangular panels sewn together.
The stitch pattern is a four row repeat and the most complicated stitch (and I say that lightly because it isn’t complicated) is the 3-dc puff stitch. There are written instructions below as well as a photo tutorial. Click the highlighted text to get to the photo tutorial. Other stitches required for the panels are single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet.
Something that really resonated with me about this pattern is that it’s large. It’s a great tummy hider, which is something that I look for in clothing. (I tend to keep a good bit of my weight around my middle.) Anyway, this poncho is large on me and I wear a size extra large.
If you wanted to adjust the sizing to make it smaller for petite women or larger for more plus sized women, the pattern is just a multiple of three chains, so you can definitely adjust the pattern to suit your needs. Three chains using an I/9 hook is just under an inch.
You have the option to leave the sides of the panels hang loose or to fasten them together using buttons or ribbons or whatever you desire. There’s no right or wrong way to express yourself! I chose to close the sides with buttons that I purchased at Micheals. They are from the company called Loops & Threads.
You don’t even have to make button holes! The pattern has the perfect sized holes already in the pattern and I’ll show you exactly where to place your buttons.
Light & Lacy Poncho
- 6 ½ skeins of Bernat Softee Baby – Grey Marl – 5 oz/140 g – 362 yds/331 m
- I/9 (5.25 mm) hook
- 6 – 7/8” buttons
- 4 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
Finished Size Approximately:
37” width x 24” height
Inside circumference is approximately 68”
Neck opening is approximately 13” across
14 dc and 9 rows of pattern (dc row to dc row) in a 4” (10cm) square.
3 Double Crochet Puff Stitch (3-dc puff st)
*YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw back through the st, YO, draw through 2 loops on hook* Repeat from * to * 3 more times in the same st. YO, draw through all 4 loops on hook.
ch – chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
3-dc puff st – 3 Double Crochet Puff Stitch
sl st – slip stitch
FC – foundation chain (beginning chain)
- This poncho is one size fits most, but if you feel you’d like a larger or smaller size, simply adjust your foundation chain (using the same number of stitches for both panels). You need a multiple of 3 to complete the stitch pattern.
- I am 5′ 8″ so if you need this pattern longer or shorter, hold the panel up to the base of your throat to check the length. Taking rows off or adding them on, doesn’t affect the pattern. Just make sure you do it for both panels. Try to stop at a Row 2 repeat if possible.
- The poncho is constructed of two rectangular panels sewn together. It can be left open at the sides or, as shown in the above photo, have buttons added for a closure along both sides.
*** American crochet terms used throughout.
FC: Ch 129
Row 1: In 4th ch from hook, dc. Dc in each ch across. Turn. (127 dc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the same st the ch 1 comes out of and in each st across. Sc in the top of the ch-3 from previous row. Turn. (127 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st the ch 1 comes out of, ch 3. In the same st you just worked your sc, 3-dc puff st. Skip 2 sts. *Sc in next st, ch 3. In same st you just worked your sc, 3-dc puff st. Skip 2 sts.* Repeat from * to * across. In last st, sc. Turn. (42 puffs)
Row 4: Ch 3, sc in 1st ch-3 space of previous row, *ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp* Repeat from * to * across. (Don’t ch 3 after your last sc) Hdc in the top of the sc from Row 3. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in top of sc from previous row, *2 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in top of sc from previous row* Repeat from * to * across. In ch-3 turning ch, dc in that space and dc in 2nd ch of turning ch. (127 dc)
Repeat Row 2 – Row 5 for pattern for a total of 58 rows. Your last Row will be a Row 2 repeat of single crochets.
Along Row 58 (or your final row) and using your stitch markers, count in from each side 45 stitches and place a marker. So, in other words, each panel will have 2 stitch markers along the top row. One will be placed 45 stitches in from the right outside edge and one will be placed 45 stitches in from the left outside edge. This marks out your neck opening.
Once your stitch markers are in place, line up both top rows of the panels so that you can whip stitch them together.
Starting at the outside edge of the panels, work your way toward the center, whip stitching the 45 stitches together. Finish off. On the opposite end of the panels seam that you are creating, whip stitch the other 45 stitches together. Finish off.
At this point you should try the poncho on to determine if the neck hole is the proper size for you. You can open it up wider if desired by removing stitches or closing it up tighter, by adding more stitches along the seam.
The trim is created by the (sc, ch 3, 3-dc puff st) and skipping 2 sts repeat that you used throughout the pattern. Begin in the corner stitch of any corner.
Sc in the corner st, ch 3. Work the 3-dc puff st in the same space as the sc you just made.
Since there are no definite stitches along the edges (unless you started at the bottom of a panel, in which case you would sk 2 sts before working your next sc, ch 3, 3-dc puff st), you will have to gently lean the puff stitch over, finding a corresponding place to work your next sc. Don’t pull too hard to stretch it to a stitch. It will make your poncho pucker. Don’t work you next sc too closely to the first sc because it will start to ruffle. Just gently lean it over and find the closest stitch you can use.
In this photo, I’m just starting to lean the puff stitch over.
I’ve chosen the stitch just in front of my left thumb as my target.
Continue working the (sc, ch 3, 3-dc puff st) and skip 2 sts (or leaning) all the way to the next corner. In the corner stitch, work 3 sc. This will turn you so that you are ready to work along the next edge. That 3rd sc you just worked will be the sc you use for the beginning of your puff st. Ch 3 and complete your 3-dc puff stitch in the same corner space the 3 sc are in.
Continue working this pattern along each edge the whole way around the poncho. In the final corner space where you began your trim, 2 sc and sl st in the top of the first sc you made of the trim round.
Note: If your 3-dc puff sts don’t work out that they end perfectly on a corner, you can fudge it a little. Skipping 3 sts or only skipping 1 st isn’t going to cause a problem and shouldn’t be noticeable. Just don’t skip more than 3 sts.
Finish off. Weave in end.
The example uses 6 buttons to close the sides of the poncho (3 buttons per side).
Instead of creating button holes, you can use the ch-3 space that is part of the 3-dc puff st. On the back panel of the poncho and on the inside, I attached three buttons using yarn and a tapestry needle.
The first button is attached to the first 3-dc puff st at the base of the poncho. The second button is attached to the first 3-dc puff st three puff stitches above the first. And the final button is attached to the first 3-dc puff st three more puff stitches above the second button. So basically, you will skip 2 rows of puff stitches between each button as the photo indicates.
Button the back panel to the front using the corresponding ch-3 spaces on the front panel so that they match up neatly.
Weave in all of your ends if you haven’t already done so.
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