Fleur-de-lis Cardigan

Fleur-de-lis cardigan upper portion/ shoulder view

The Fleur-de-lis Cardigan is a wonderful layering piece that you can wear year round if you so desire. From work, a night on the town, the theater or sitting around a campfire, you’ll have many many opportunities to wear this sweater!

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Fleur-de-lis cardigan midsection
Fleur-de-lis cardigan bottom hem

I used Yarn Bee Soft Secret that I purchased at Hobby Lobby for this cardigan, but you can use any size 4 medium weight yarn that you wish. A yarn that is comparable in quality, yet cheaper in price, is Caron Simply Soft. I love using Caron for garments and you can find it at pretty much any store that sells yarn.

A fun feature about this pattern is that you can customize the design to your preference! You could work three rows of the “sleeves” and finish off, making this a kimono. Another option is working enough rows of the sleeves to reach your elbow — a great summertime sweater!

Fleur-de-lis cardigan back view
Fleur-de-lis cardigan close up of stitches

You can shorten it by omitting some rows for a cropped cardigan or, conversely, you can lengthen it by adding additional rows to create a duster style garment. Feel free to make this pattern your own.

I encourage you to go through the pattern before you start and circle or highlight the instructions for the specific size you are working on. This will help to avoid any confusion while you work.

Fleur-de-lis cardigan full body view
Fleur-de-lis cardigan sleeve held out to side

The example sweater is an XL. It is not true to size. The cardigan is slightly over-sized and not intended to close in the front. It is designed to hang open.

I hope you enjoy the pattern!

If you’d like to see more sweater/top patterns that I’ve designed, click this link here!

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Fleur-de-lis Cardigan

Materials Used:

  • 4 (4½, 5, 5½, 6, 6½) skeins of Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Biscuit – 6 oz/300 yds – 170 g/275 m
  • Or any size 4 medium weight yarn
  • H/8 (5.00 mm) crochet hook
  • Measuring tape
  • Stitch markers
  • Tapestry needle

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Finished Size Approximately:

Bust Measurements (including 3” of trim)

Small – 35.25”

Medium – 40.5”

Large – 42.25”

XL – 47.5”

2XL – 49.25”

3XL – 54.5”

Gauge:

16 double crochet stitches and 7 rows in a 4” (10cm) square.

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch

YO, insert your hook into the st, YO and draw back through the st. You will now have 3 loops on your hook. YO, insert your hook back into the same st, YO and draw back through the st. You will now have 5 loops on your hook. YO, insert your hook back into the same st, YO and draw back through the st. You will now have 7 loops on your hook. YO and draw through all 7 loops on your hook.

Double Crochet 2 Together (Dc2tog)

YO, insert your hook into designated stitch,YO and draw back through. You will now have 3 loops on hook. YO and draw through 2 loops. You will now have 2 loops on hook. YO, insert hook into next st, YO and draw back through st. You will now have 4 loops on hook. YO and draw through 2 loops. You will now have 3 loops on hook. YO and draw through final 3 loops.

Abbreviations:

YO – yarn over

FC – foundation chain

ch(s) – chain(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

sl st – slip stitch

Notes:

  • This cardigan consists of three panels: 1 back panel and 2 front panels. They are seamed together at the shoulders and under the arms. The sleeves are then worked outward from the armholes. Finally, a simple double crochet trim is added around the border of the main body of the cardigan.
  • The 3 puff stitches together in the same stitch are referred to as a “flower” in the instructions. You will be instructed to work into the center puff st of the flower, which means the 2nd puff stitch.
  • The sleeve length can be altered by adding or removing rows according to your preference.
  • The example sweater is an XL. It is not true to size. The cardigan is slightly oversized and not intended to close in the front. It is designed to hang open.
  • Sizing is written as Small with Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, 3XL written in parenthesis for the foundation chain. I recommend using a highlighter or circling your size throughout the pattern to avoid confusion.
  • To use this stitch pattern for any other project or to adjust the size of your panels, you will need a foundation chain (starting chain) that has a multiple of 8 chains plus 2.
  • I recommend ending on a Row 2 or Row 4 repeat to achieve a flat edge rather than a scalloped edge.
  • Please remember that if you get stuck or don’t understand any of the instructions and need some clarification, that you can always contact me at highlandhickorydesigns@gmail.com for one on one help. I’m always happy to help!

*** American crochet terms used throughout.

Instructions:

Back Panel

Make 1

FC: Ch 82 (90, 98, 106, 114, 122)

Row 1: In 2nd ch from hook, sc. *Ch 1, skip 3 chs, all in next ch (puff st, ch 2, puff st ch 2, puff st, ch 1). Skip 3 chs, sc in next ch* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.

Fleur-de-lis cardigan row 1

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st ch 3 comes out of, ch 2, sc in center puff st of next flower, ch 2, *3 dc in next sc from previous row, ch 2, sc in center puff st of next flower, ch 2* Repeat from * to * across. In last sc of previous row, work 2 dc. Turn.

Fleur-de-lis cardigan row 2

Row 3: Ch 3, in the same st the ch 3 comes out of, work (dc, ch 2, puff st), ch 1, sc in next sc from previous row, ch 1, skip ch-2 space. *In center dc of the 3 from the previous row, work (puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 1). Sc in next sc from previous row, ch 1, skip ch-2 space* Repeat from * to * until only the ch 2, dc and ch 2 turning ch remain. In the top of the ch 3 turning ch from previous row, work (puff st, ch 2, 2 dc). Turn.

Fleur-de-lis cardigan row 3

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st ch 1 comes out of, *Ch 2, 3 dc in next sc from previous row, ch 2, sc in center puff st of next flower* Repeat from * to * across. Work last sc into the top of ch 3 turning ch from previous row. Turn.

Fleur-de-lis cardigan row 4

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st ch 1 comes out of, *ch 1, skip ch-2 space, in next center dc of the 3 from previous row, work (puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 1), skip ch-2 space, sc in the sc from previous row* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.

Fleur-de-lis cardigan row 5

Repeat Row 2 – Row 5 for pattern.

Back Panel Stats

Small Medium Large XL 2XL 3XL
# of Rows 48 50 52 54 56 58
Width 18.25” 20” 21.75” 23.5” 25.25” 27”
Length 24” 25” 26” 27” 28” 29”

Front Panels

Make 2

FC: 34 (42, 42, 50, 50, 58)

Row 1: In 2nd ch from hook, sc. *Ch 1, skip 3 chs, all in next ch (puff st, ch 2, puff st ch 2, puff st, ch 1). Skip 3 chs, sc in next ch* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st ch 3 comes out of, ch 2, sc in center puff st of next flower, ch 2, *3 dc in next sc from previous row, ch 2, sc in center puff st of next flower, ch 2* Repeat from * to * across. In last sc of previous row, work 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, in the same st the ch 3 comes out of, work (dc, ch 2, puff st), ch 1, sc in next sc from previous row, ch 1, skip ch-2 space. *In center dc of the 3 from the previous row, work (puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 1). Sc in next sc from previous row, ch 1, skip ch-2 space* Repeat from * to * until only the ch 2, dc and ch 2 turning ch remain. In the top of the ch 3 turning ch from previous row, work (puff st, ch 2, 2 dc). Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st ch 1 comes out of, *Ch 2, 3 dc in next sc from previous row, ch 2, sc in center puff st of next flower* Repeat from * to * across. Work last sc into the top of ch 3 turning ch from previous row. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st ch 1 comes out of, *ch 1, skip ch-2 space, in next center dc of the 3 from previous row, work (puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 2, puff st, ch 1), skip ch-2 space, sc in the sc from previous row* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 – Row 5 for pattern.

Front Panel Stats

Small Medium Large XL 2XL 3XL
# of Rows 48 50 52 54 56 58
Width 7” 8.75” 8.75” 10.5” 10.5” 12.25”
Length 24” 25” 26” 27” 28” 29”

Assembly

Lay Back Panel with Right Side facing up on a flat surface. With Right Side facing down, lay one of the Front Panels on top of the Back Panel lining up the outer corners. Make sure that your Fleur-de-lis motif is facing the same direction on both panels. Place stitch markers to hold the two panels together.

You will seam the two panels together along the shorter top, which will be the shoulder seam. You can use a tapestry needle and yarn to mattress stitch, whip stitch or whichever seaming method you prefer to seam the two pieces together.

Use your measuring tape to measure down from the shoulder seam for your armhole. Mark with a stitch marker. Make sure the stitch marker goes through both panels.

Armhole Measurements

Small/Medium – 7”

Large/XL – 8”

2XL/3XL – 9”

Note: You may want to place the shoulder seam on your shoulder and put your arm through the armhole at this point to make sure that your sleeve will not be too loose or too tight and adjust your stitch marker before seaming the side. If you moved your stitch marker, remeasure the distance from the shoulder seam and write it down so that you can use the same measurement for the other armhole.

Using your tapestry needle and yarn, seam the two panels together from the armpit area down the side to the bottom of the cardigan.

Repeat the entire process for the 2nd Front Panel.

Flip your cardigan right side out.

Sleeves – find your size below and follow those directions

Fleur-de-lis cardigan sleeve row 1

SMALL

Attach your yarn in the armpit seam.

Round 1: Ch 3, dc evenly around the entire armhole opening. Sl st in the 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn your work.

Note: You don’t want your double crochets to be too close or too far apart when working Round 1. Try to keep them completely even the whole way around. If they are too close, your stitches will be wavy. If they are too far apart, there will be large visible gaps between your stitches.

Round 2 – Round 3: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 4 – Round 22: Ch 3, dc2tog using next 2 sts, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 23 – Round 25: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Finish off. Weave in end.

Repeat instructions for second sleeve.

Note: At this point you can try the cardigan on to see if you are happy with the sleeve length and adjust according to your preferences by adding or removing rounds. Make a note of your adjustments in your pattern so you can replicate them on the opposite side.

MEDIUM

Round 1: Ch 3, dc evenly around the entire armhole opening. Sl st in the 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn your work.

Note: You don’t want your double crochets to be too close or too far apart when working Round 1. Try to keep them completely even the whole way around. If they are too close, your stitches will be wavy. If they are too far apart, there will be large visible gaps between your stitches.

Round 2 – Round 4: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 5 – Round 24: Ch 3, dc2tog using next 2 sts, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 25 – Round 27: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Finish off. Weave in end.

Repeat instructions for second sleeve.

Note: At this point you can try the cardigan on to see if you are happy with the sleeve length and adjust according to your preferences by adding or removing rounds. Make a note of your adjustments in your pattern so you can replicate them on the opposite side.

LARGE/XL

Round 1: Ch 3, dc evenly around the entire armhole opening. Sl st in the 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn your work.

Note: You don’t want your double crochets to be too close or too far apart when working Round 1. Try to keep them completely even the whole way around. If they are too close, your stitches will be wavy. If they are too far apart, there will be large visible gaps between your stitches.

Round 2 – Round 5: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 6 – Round 26: Ch 3, dc2tog using next 2 sts, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 27 – Round 29: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Finish off. Weave in end.

Repeat instructions for second sleeve.

Note: At this point you can try the cardigan on to see if you are happy with the sleeve length and adjust according to your preferences by adding or removing rounds. Make a note of your adjustments in your pattern so you can replicate them on the opposite side.

2XL/3XL

Round 1: Ch 3, dc evenly around the entire armhole opening. Sl st in the 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn your work.

Note: You don’t want your double crochets to be too close or too far apart when working Round 1. Try to keep them completely even the whole way around. If they are too close, your stitches will be wavy. If they are too far apart, there will be large visible gaps between your stitches.

Round 2 – Round 6: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 7 – Round 27: Ch 3, dc2tog using next 2 sts, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Round 28 – Round 31: Ch 3, dc in every st around. Sl st in 1st dc made of round. Don’t turn.

Finish off. Weave in end.

Repeat instructions for second sleeve.

Note: At this point you can try the cardigan on to see if you are happy with the sleeve length and adjust according to your preferences by adding or removing rounds. Make a note of your adjustments in your pattern so you can replicate them on the opposite side.

Trim

With your cardigan’s right side facing you, attach your yarn at one of the seams on the bottom of the sweater.

Round 1: Ch 3, dc evenly to the corner. Work 3 dc in the corner st. Continue to dc evenly the entire way around the opening until you come to the 2nd corner. Work 3 dc in the corner st. Dc evenly until you come to your ch 3 from the beginning of the round. Sl st into the ch 3. Don’t turn.

Note: You don’t want your double crochets to be too close or too far apart when working Round 1. Try to keep them completely even the whole way around. If they are too close, your stitches will be wavy. If they are too far apart, there will be large visible gaps between your stitches.

Round 2 – Round 3: Ch 3, dc in every st to the corner. In center st of the 3 dc from the previous round, work 3 dc. Dc in every st to next corner. In center st of the 3 dc from the previous round, work 3 dc. Dc in every st to 1st ch 3 of round. Sl st in top of ch 3. Don’t turn.

Fleur-de-lis cardigan stitch chart

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5 thoughts on “Fleur-de-lis Cardigan

  1. I love this! Thank you so much for the free pattern and clear instructions! It’s beautiful.

  2. Hi Erica I sent you an email with a picture of the swatch. I’ll definitely try the downsize idea and see how that works.

  3. Hello Dalena! I’m assuming since you sized down your hook that you are getting a swatch that is larger than mine, is that correct? And even a 4.25 mm was too big? Sometimes different brands of yarn say they are the same size, but when you compare them side by side, they aren’t even close. I’ve had this happen a few times with different brands. That could be an issue right there, but there is no need for you to have to change your yarn choice. We can make this work anyway. So how much of a size difference is your swatch compared to mine? You can always email me with photos if you find that helpful and I would be more than happy to give you one on one help with your cardigan. You can email me at highlandhickorydesigns at gmail dot com. A thought I had, if your swatch is considerably larger, is to just size down one on your cardigan. That would make up for the difference. For example, a small worked with a larger swatch would finish as a medium. Does that make sense? I look forward to hearing from you! Erica

  4. Hi I’m wanting to make this one. So I’ve made a swatch to check the gauge and I’m using Lion Brand pound of love weight 4 yarn and a 5 mm hook. But I’m not getting a gauge of 16 DC 7 rows in a 4” square. I’ve tried a 4.25 mm hook and still not getting the gauge you have. Any ideas? Thank you

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