Water’s Edge Kimono
Hey there!
I’d like to believe that Spring is here since we’ve passed the daylight savings time clock change, but it just so happens to be snowing right now. Hopefully, wherever you are, the weather is warmer.
Even though it’s cold today, I designed this beautiful Water’s Edge Kimono in the hopes that Spring would hurry up. I think sometimes Mother Nature needs a good swift kick in the pants! Ha! I’m only fooling myself though. She’ll do whatever she wants.
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UPDATE!!! The starting chains for the two front panels have been updated to create a more consistent neck hole size. (April 9, 2018)
I love the different Kimono patterns that I’ve been seeing from other designers. Simple construction, generous sizing, seasonally appropriate — I needed to design one! The lacy pattern makes it perfect for Spring, Summer and Fall…maybe even Winter, for those of you who live someplace warm. (Totally jealous…)
A video tutorial is now available for the stitch pattern. Click here to see my very first video!
You can wear a long sleeved blouse or top underneath when the weather is mild or a tank top when it’s a bit warmer. The Water’s Edge Kimono is a very versatile layering piece that is perfect for your wardrobe.
This kimono is simple in its construction. There are three panels that are seamed together using a tapestry needle and yarn. Trim is then added around the armholes and the main body opening to finish it off.
I chose Caron Simply Soft yarn in the color Ocean. I tend to use Caron quite often for making clothing simply because it is lighter than worsted weight and much softer on your skin. They also have so many colors to choose from, which is great! (I’m not an affiliate for Caron. I just like their yarn. 🙂 )
I originally found the stitch pattern on Pinterest. (The chart on the bottom of the pin) It was only a chart and none of the words were in English, so I set to work figuring it out. Fortunately, it wasn’t nearly as difficult as it appeared. I’ve created a step-by-step photo stitch tutorial to go along with this pattern for your convenience. You can see the step-by-step photo stitch tutorial here.

This Water’s Edge Kimono pattern is designed to be long, but if you’re in doubt about the length for your own sweater, I suggest holding the panel up to the shoulder seam of whatever shirt you are wearing. That way, you can determine the length you need to fit you the way you desire. Be sure to adjust all panels to the same number of rows.
If you want an Extra Small or any size higher than a 3XL, you will need to subtract or add 6 chains. For instance, the number of chains needed for the back panel of a Small are 100, so for an Extra Small, you would need 94 chains. For a 4XL, add 6 to the 3XL number of chains (130) to get 136. Remember to do this for all three panels.
You can customize this kimono any way you want! Get creative!
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Add this project to your Ravelry queue here at this link.
What is your favorite yarn to make clothing with? Let me know in the comments below!
I also designed a super easy poncho pattern if you’d like to take a look. Click here. And I have a 2nd kimono pattern in white that you can see here — Moonstone Kimono.
So, let’s get started!
Water’s Edge Kimono
Materials Used:
- 4 (5, 6) skeins of Caron Simply Soft – Ocean – 6 oz/170 g – 315 yds/ 288 m
- H/8 (5.00 mm) hook — my favorite hooks! 😉
- J/10 (5.75 mm) hook
- Stitch markers or safety pins
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape for armholes
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Gauge:
16 double crochet stitches and 7 rows in a 4” (10cm) square.
Special Stitches:
You can see the step-by-step photo stitch tutorial here.
You can see the video stitch tutorial here.
Modified Cluster Stitch #1
Ch 3, YO and insert hook into the side of the single crochet you just made, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and insert hook back into the side of the sc, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Modified Cluster Stitch #2
Ch 4, YO and insert hook into the first chain of the chain 4 you just made, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and insert hook back into the side of the sc, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Abbreviations:
FC – foundation chain (beginning chain)
YO – yarn over
ch – chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tc – triple (treble) crochet
sl st – slip stitch
Notes:
- This pattern is designed to be over-sized and super roomy. Since the kimono is over-sized, I made mine one size larger than the size I am. I’m a XL and I made a 2XL.
- This stitch pattern is a multiple of 6 chs + 4, if you would like to use this stitch combination for any other project or to create a size kimono that is not given.
- This kimono is constructed of 3 rectangular panels that are seamed together. A border is added around the sleeves and main body of the kimono.
- Instructions are given for how many chains are needed for each cluster stitch. After the number of chains (3 or 4), it will say “complete cluster” since it is the same instructions for both kinds of cluster stitches. See Special Stitches section.
- For the first modified cluster stitch that uses an initial chain 3, the rest of the cluster stitch will be worked into the side of the single crochet that the chain comes out of. You can see the step-by-step photo stitch tutorial of the Water’s Edge Kimono here.
- You can see the video stitch tutorial here.
- The clusters are referred to as petals in the instructions since they look like petals of a flower. One cluster is one petal.
- You can block your panels if desired. The example is not blocked.
- Sizing is written as Small with Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, 3XL written in parenthesis. For example, the FC for the back panel is size S-100 chs (M-106, L-112, XL-118, 2XL-124, 3XL-130) It helps to mark your size numbers before you begin to avoid confusion.
*** American crochet terms used throughout.
Instructions:
Back Panel
Make 1 using H hook
FC: Ch 100 (106, 112, 118, 124, 130)
Row 1: In 5th ch from hook, dc. Dc in each ch across. Turn. (97, 103, 109, 115, 121, 127 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip the st the ch 4 comes out of and skip the next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st* Repeat from * to * across. In top of ch 4 turning ch, dc. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *In ch-1 space, dc. Dc in next st,* Repeat from * to *. Dc in the ch-4 space. In the third ch of the ch 4 from previous row, dc. Turn. (97, 103, 109, 115, 121, 127 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st ch-1 comes out of, *ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in next st* Repeat from * to *. The last sc of the row is worked into the top of the ch 3 turning chain. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 8. In the 5th ch from hook, complete cluster. Sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc. *Ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 petals, sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc.* Repeat from * to *. Tc in 1st sc made of previous row. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same ch 1 space, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2 *sc in between next set of petals, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2* Repeat * to *. Sc in 4th turning ch of previous row. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-2 sp *dc in next st, 2 dc in ch-2 sp* Repeat from * to *. Dc in sc from previous row. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 – Row 7 for pattern.
Final Row
S 39
M 45
L 45
XL 51
2XL 51
3XL 51 (If this isn’t long enough, add another Row 2 – Row 7.)
Finish off. Weave in ends.
Approximate Size of Back Panel
S 25”W x 22.5”L
M 26.5”W x 26” L
L 28”W x 26”L
XL 29.5”W x 29.5”L
2XL 31”W x 29.5”L
3XL 32.5”W x 29.5”L
Side Panels
Make 2 using H hook
FC: Ch 46 (46, 52, 52, 58, 58)
Row 1: In 5th ch from hook, dc. Dc in each ch across. Turn. (43, 43, 49, 49, 55, 55 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip the st the ch 4 comes out of and skip the next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st* Repeat from * to * across. In top of ch 4 turning ch, dc. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *In ch-1 space, dc. Dc in next st,* Repeat from * to *. Dc in the ch-4 space. In the third ch of the ch 4 from previous row, dc. Turn. (43, 43, 49, 49, 55, 55 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st ch-1 comes out of, *ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in next st* Repeat from * to *. The last sc of the row is worked into the top of the ch 3 turning chain. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 8. In the 5th ch from hook, complete cluster. Sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc. *Ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 petals, sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc.* Repeat from * to *. Tc in 1st sc made of previous row. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same ch 1 space, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2 *sc in between next set of petals, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2* Repeat * to *. Sc in 4th turning ch of previous row. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-2 sp *dc in next st, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp* Repeat from * to *. Dc in sc from previous row. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 – Row 7 for pattern.
Finish off. Weave in ends.
Final Row
S 39
M 45
L 45
XL 51
2XL 51
3XL 51 (If this isn’t long enough, add another Row 2 – Row 7.)
Approximate Size of one Side Panel
S 10”W x 22.5”L
M 10”W x 26” L
L 12”W x 26”L
XL 12”W x 29.5”L
2XL 13.5”W x 29.5”L
3XL 13.5”W x 29.5”L
Assembly
Lay your large back panel on a flat surface. Place your side panels as shown in the photo below, matching up ends. You can use stitch markers or pins to hold everything in place if you wish. Using a tapestry needle and your yarn, begin stitching the panels together along the orange lines. The two short lines on the top are the shoulders. The two lines along the sides are just below the armpits. Use the chart below to determine the inches needed for the armholes.

Armholes
Inches from Shoulder
S 6”
M 8”
L 8”
XL 10”
2XL 10”
3XL 10-12”
Trim
Using J hook
Round 1: Attach your yarn in any stitch along the arm hole. With the right side of the cardigan facing you, begin single crocheting evenly around the armhole opening. Sl st in the first sc made of round.
Round 2 – Round 5: Ch 1, sc in every sc around. Sl st in 1st sc made of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 – 5 for the second armhole.
Trim for the body opening of the Water’s Edge Kimono
Round 1: Still using the J hook and with the right side of the kimono facing you, attach the yarn in any stitch and sc. Begin single crocheting evenly around the entire opening – along the rough side of the front panel, along the hemline, up the other rough edge of the 2nd front panel and across the back of the neckline. There are two corners and they are at the base of the 2 narrow front panels. When you come to the corners, (sc, ch 2, sc) all in the same corner space. Sl st in the first sc made of the round.
Round 2 – Round 5: Ch 1, sc in every sc around. In both ch-2 spaces that are corners, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 space. Sl st in 1st sc made of round.
Finish off. Weave in ends.
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I hope you’ve enjoyed the Water’s Edge Kimono pattern! If you make one and would like to show off your work, you can tag me on Instagram using @highlandhickorydesigns. I can’t wait to see your kimonos!!!
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